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Starting issue after complete restoration

Steve Clarke
Steve Clarke
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Starting issue after complete restoration Empty Starting issue after complete restoration

Post by Steve Clarke on Wed 26 Jun 2019, 8:13 pm

Hi all, My CB500 (1999 "V") has been my restoration project for the last 2 years. I rode it home after buying it then stripped it, so was a runner.
I'm now at the stage of starting her up however a few strange things appear to be happening.

I am aware of the safety elements, clutch pulled in, side stand up to start it, but would appreciate some clarification as the following is happening and I don't know if it should be.

When I turn on the ignition I have the oil light and neutral light on, the side stand light does not illuminate in any position. (I have not as yet checked the bulb)
With just the ignition on I have no indicators horn or lights, when I pull in the clutch I get indicators horn and lights.
It fired up but as soon as I let go of the clutch it cut out, now the battery is flat so unable to retry.
So my questions are:
1) Should my lights, indicators, etc work when the ignition is on and the engine is not running regardless of clutch position?
2) Should the side stand light illuminate with the stand down when the engine is not running?
3) What are the combinations of the starting procedure, IE stand up, neutral, stand up in gear but clutch pulled in. (kill switch in run position)

All advice greatly received.

***UPDATE***
Thanks for all your advice and tips, yes the electrical fault was a bad earth. I've added an earth lead from the battery to the frame.
The lights are now sorted.
I also had a weak spark at the plugs, this too was an earthing problem as the powder coated coil bracket was insulating the coils from the frame.
Got the dremel on the job so now have a good fat spark.
Still can't get her started though. LOL
Need to drain the old fuel and replace with new, check compression etc, etc so will update again when I find out the cause of the nonstarting.
Too busy over the next few weeks so will have to wait a bit.
On the upside I'm at BSB Donnington on Sunday.  Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy


Last edited by Steve Clarke on Mon 01 Jul 2019, 6:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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sullivj
the 900
the 900

Posts : 2238
Location : Gatwick

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Post by sullivj on Wed 26 Jun 2019, 9:58 pm

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) I always start mine in neutral and never pull the clutch in. The stand doesn't have to be up to start it.

I expect your side stand switch is faulty, or you may have an earthing problem, or both.
Oafski
Oafski
Godly
Godly

Posts : 67
Location : Waltham Cross

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Post by Oafski on Thu 27 Jun 2019, 11:32 am

Plus 1 on the earthing problem, might have to scrape new paint off where frame earth is.
motofan
motofan
Four's a...something...
Four's a...something...

Posts : 161
Location : Normandie, France

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Post by motofan on Sun 30 Jun 2019, 10:15 am

I would agree with Oafski, it seems the engine is insulated from the frame and earthing through the cable when you pull the clutch. Either undo an engine mount and scrape paint off between frame and engine or run a thick (2 or3mm) wire from the battary negative to the frame under the seat. A good connection is the earth under the rectifier, don't forget to scrape the paint there to get all the earths there contacting well and apply a generous blob of copper slip or graphited grease against future corrosion problems.
Bad earths do give bizzare problems but get everything well earthed and then if you do have any other issues you should be able to find them more easily.
Hope you get it sorted, there's nothing worse than having your bike not working and the weather fine!
Dave.
Jameshambleton
Jameshambleton
the 900
the 900

Posts : 2983
Location : Bedale, North Yorkshire

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Post by Jameshambleton on Sun 30 Jun 2019, 11:11 am

I personally runa ground from the engine to the battery (as standard).
Due to some electrical issues I'd being having myself I ran a ground from the 10mm bolt on the seatlock and linked that directly to the battery and haven't had an issue since.
If you've had the parts sprayed or powder coated be sure to run a tap down the threads if you haven't already to ensure a good connection!
Steve Clarke
Steve Clarke
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Newbie

Posts : 3

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Post by Steve Clarke on Wed 21 Aug 2019, 8:42 pm

So after doing a compression test, I found that cylinder 1 was only 4bar and cylinder 2 was 6 bar.
On reading the manual it should be 14 bar so compression is the issue.
I have smoke tested the engine, forcing it down each barrel and found it went straight into the crankcase,
so bypassing the rings. The valves are OK but I've lapped them in any way.
The piston rings have stuck to the piston as the engine has not run for 2 years, this has happened despite having been turned over regularly,
with redex in both pots.
I'm now in the process of removing the engine to get to the con rods to pop the pistons to release the rings.
What a faff.
Jameshambleton
Jameshambleton
the 900
the 900

Posts : 2983
Location : Bedale, North Yorkshire

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Post by Jameshambleton on Fri 23 Aug 2019, 3:05 pm

It's easier to remove the sump and get to the conrod bolts that way
Steve Clarke
Steve Clarke
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Newbie

Posts : 3

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Post by Steve Clarke on Sat 24 Aug 2019, 10:51 am

@Jameshambleton wrote:It's easier to remove the sump and get to the conrod bolts that way







Hi James, I'm following the Haynes manual which says the engine must come out, the gearbox halves split in order to gain access to the con rod bolts.
You are a better man than I if you managed to do it by just removing the sump.
I found that they are surrounded by engine casting and crankshaft webs, but as they say where there's a will......
I have now removed the pistons and yes the rings are stuck solid to the pistons.
Can't help thinking that now the engine is totally disassembled that I should replace main and con rod bearing shells, piston rings, camchain, valve springs,
and valve stem oil seals.
Does anyone know of a supplier other than the main dealers?
ANDYC
ANDYC
the 900
the 900

Mechanic
Posts : 1131
Location : Windsor

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Post by ANDYC on Sun 25 Aug 2019, 12:38 pm

You can do it without splitting the crankcase, but the engine will need to be out purely to make the job easier. 
The cylinder head needs to come off as the pistons can only be removed from the top.you can undo the conrod bolts once the sump is removed and tap them out (GENTLY).

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