How hard to change chain and sprocket on a CB500 and what tools do I need?

Hi,
Looking to change my chain and sprockets. First time I've ever tried this. Most I've done before is adjust my chain and change oil/filter.

How difficult is it to change C&S for someone of my limited experience?
What are the must have tools?

I could go to my mechanic, but I'd like to become more self sufficient regarding maintenance.

Thanks

Have a read of this thread, should show everything you need.

Firstly, read teamster's link posted above

If you buy those tools and follow the instructions it shouldn't be much harder than changing the oil.

If it doesn't go to plan (sometimes bad things happen) then don't panic, post a question on here and we'll try and sort you out. Quite a few of us have done this on our own bikes, so hopefully we can help.

Do you need to use your bike everyday/for commuting? If so it might be better to start this work on a Friday afternoon (if you can) - then you've got a whole weekend to sort things out. It probably won't take that long but there's no point in rushing yourself unnecessarily. If you work weekends then it might be better to wait until you have a day or two off for similar reasons.

Anyway, I'm certainly not trying to put you off the DIY-route - just saying that it pays to 'line all the ducks up' before starting.

Definitely helps to plan things out. I lay out tools and equipment Thursday night then start work when I get home Friday. Thinking through what order you want to do thing in will help if (for example) you don't have someone to stand on the rear brake if you need to lock things up.

I found that the cheaper chain tools didn't survive contact with the enemy and I had to buy a heavier duty one. But if you compare the cost vs getting it done at a mechanic, it's a no brainer really.

I assume your chain and sprockets are going in the bin? If that's the case, you might want to consider not using the chain breaker tool to push the rivet pins out. It sometimes proves a bit too much for the cheaper tools to handle. Easier to use an angle grinder or a dremel to take the flared part of the pin off, then push through (or just cut through the chain). Just makes the job slightly easier. Worth giving it all a good clean - my chain adjuster blocks looked like they were about to grow stalactites. Not even going to mention the front sprocket mess.

Tools I found particularly useful were a set of vernier to make sure I didn't oversqueeze the chain plates together (and to check the flare of the pin at the very end). Torque wrench. Breaker bar. Engine cleaner/degreaser as you have unfettered access to the swingarm and other parts. Make sure you've some wood to rest the rear wheel rims on whilst working on it. And then a decent breaker/joiner tool. Delboy's garage did a video on chain changing which isn't bad (although it's on the other side as he works on a Triumph. If you've not had the rear wheel out before, it will also let you access the rear caliper, always worth a quick spray, clean and scrub with a toothbrush (when I bought mine, the sliding pins had seized as no-one had ever touched it), plus a swift regrease.

It's a slippery slope - til all of a sudden you find that you're doing damn near everything on the bike on your own!

If you are interested, I bought the DID chain tool. It is wonderful! It's a shame the chains last so long because I want to use the tool more. It was expensive at £100ish but still cheaper than paying someone to do it an you have it for next time. If you go that route, the tool makes it so easy anyone can do it.

Don't know how well it works (if at all) with other brands of chains but I am happy sticking with the DID x ring chains. Also expensive but good for 30k miles so good value

@liverpool_f_ wrote:If you are interested, I bought the DID chain tool. It is wonderful! ...I am happy sticking with the DID x ring chains. Also expensive but good for 30k miles so good value

I'll second you on buying proper kit. Makes the work a pleasure, not a pain.
And yes, the DID chains last a long time. I've exchanged the sprocket twice, which made the chain last 60.000 km before it gave in, developing a ticking noise that didn't suit my mechanical OCD well.

Maintaining the CB can be a quite fulfilling pastime, in fact. Not only do you get to know your bike. You also get to determine the level of quality. It may take longer and you may end up getting all dirty and with bruises on your knuckles - but you'll know exactly what happened and whether or not things were done right or just bodged. Having the bike serviced by 'professionals', you won't really know, will you?

Scary at first thought... Just like brake caliper seals.. Once you've done it once it's simple and easy to do. 

Protip... The front sprocket bolt. Make sure this is the first thing you losen and loosen the rear sprocket nuts with the chain still on the bike. Makes life so much easier

Thanks for all the advice. As a follow up question, how many miles are people getting out of their chains and what chain lube and cleaner do you use?

I use 10w/40 on chain and apply it with small brush every 300miles others use other type of thicker oil. And i clean chain with wd40 (make sure its well rubbed off with rag before you apply new lube). How long chain lasts depends on how u ride and maintain chain. From experience i use D.iD chain and jt sprokets. Avoid jt chains they rust like mad not half as good as d.i.d. you can also get a scottoiler (expensive)to give chain  longer life. Ive a loobman chain oiler( cheap)works good. Ive had chain maker breakers from irish garage equipment(cheap )but do not last long as pins break that drive out rivet  when breaking a chain..a expensive chain maker breaker is long term good investment. You can have look at breakin and making a chain u utube.

You can use various things to clean a chain. Paraffin (kerosene) is probably one of the cheaper things.

I've used heavy gear oil or 10W40 engine oil - neither is perfect - the heavy gear oil sticks on the chain better, but also attracts dirt quite well. The engine oil keeps things cleaner but gets flicked off more easily... either way the best thing is to clean and lubricate fairly often.

Yeah. I use paraffin to clean and gear oil to loob. I have to do that once per week as my chains a bit schitt and seems to go dry quickly now. And I'm not shy with the application. I don't think it really matters what you use from the usual suspects, just do it often, it doesn't take long. I do leave a hell of a mess on my drive though, think I need a chain drain.

Make sure you grease the threads and ball tip on the chain tool!  The instructions do not mention this and they come in the box ungreased, at least the two I used did anyway.  I found it impossible to rivet the link until I greased the tool. After that it was sooo easy!