USB charger recommendation?

Hi, any preference on adding a USB charger for a phone?

I guess this one looks the job - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTOPOWER-MP0609A-Waterproof-Motorcycle-motorcycle/dp/B01DT7LI56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525347062&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+motorcycle+charger

But any recommendations let me know
Thanks

I have the same brand but a twin USB version. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073VHJ97Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose it as I already had the battery connection lead from my Optimate and wanted to charge spare camera batteries and a phone.

A well made product and I have no doubt that it will do the job for years to come.

cool. how was installation? big job?

ps. that must be a bit crowded on the dash - wires and all. that's why I thought I'd go with the single output. On reflection though, 2's company, why not.

Have you had any de-charging issues caused by the usb, what with the optimate?

thanks

@fgclark123 wrote:cool. how was installation? big job?

Have you had any de-charging issues caused by the usb, what with the optimate?

Dead easy, kept it all in the under seat storage,

The primary purpose is for charging spare camera batteries so went for the simple option.

Only intend connecting either USB or Optimate when required...

mkaes perfect sense - out of the way charging like that, nice.

I just got it - did you include a fuse in the circuit? I don't think it's got one in there, so i guess if the wiring touches something, it could cause trouble. maybe I'm overthinking? cheers.

My Optimate lead has a 15amp inline fuse and an SAE connector as does the Motopower.

picture here

As it's a direct connection to the battery I would go with better safe than sorry

gollyg, I'm an utter plank when it comes to electrics... and most mechanical stuff! Ahm, can you clarify, if I'm just charging a phone, what's the best thing - wire in a fuse or not? And what's the issue about wiring it all in direct to the battery?

Thanks a lot, need to get this sorted. cheers

@fgclark123 wrote:gollyg, I'm an utter plank when it comes to electrics... and most mechanical stuff! Ahm, can you clarify, if I'm just charging a phone, what's the best thing - wire in a fuse or not? And what's the issue about wiring it all in direct to the battery?

Thanks a lot, need to get this sorted. cheers

Firstly: If you connect anything directly to the battery there should be a fuse in (at least) the positive cable - this prevents your bike catching fire if the cable rubs on a bit of frame and shorts itself out. It is worth noting that all of the manufacturer-fitted cabling on the bike is protected by a fuse as all of the cabling either comes from the fuse box or from the starter relay (which has its own fuse).

Secondly: The product you linked to in the initial post appears to come with a battery cable that includes a fuse holder. This will be fine assuming you put a suitable low-value fuse in it (3A maybe?).

Thanks a lot. So presumably the fuse has to go right near the +ve terminal, to absolutely minimise the chance of the wiring between fuse and terminal touching the frame - that right?

Thanks

Hi - alright, so - attach this lead -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Optimate-Permanent-Connection-Chargers-Accessories/dp/B009YJ0QF2

- then you have your fused plug. I didn't know what an Optimate was, so it seems it's a generic battery to plug adaptor used on low voltage equipment.

Correct, though as Eternally T said above you should replace the fuse with a 3 amp one. 

I believe a USB socket has circuitry to limit the current draw to 1.5A to protect things you plug in though I note the single port USB you originally looked at is protected by a 7.5A fuse.  I wouldn't expect a 3A fuse to blow but if it did a 5A or 7.5A fuse would be safe replacement.

In answer to your earlier question "Have you had any de-charging issues caused by the usb" A USB socket does not draw any current when nothing is plugged in.

@fgclark123 wrote:Thanks a lot. So presumably the fuse has to go right near the +ve terminal, to absolutely minimise the chance of the wiring between fuse and terminal touching the frame - that right?

Thanks

Yes, close is good, but you need to be able to undo the battery terminals (etc) so not *too* close...

In answer to your earlier question "Have you had any de-charging issues caused by the usb" A USB socket does not draw any current when nothing is plugged in.

A well designed one will draw almost no current when nothing is plugged in; a baaaaad one will draw more.  Best to measure the current draw with a multimeter and make your own mind up.  If it is more than a few milliamps when it is 'off' I suggest that you either connect it to a switched live or disconnect it from the battery when you are not using it (luckily this is easy as it has an in-line connector).

@eternally_troubled wrote:

In answer to your earlier question "Have you had any de-charging issues caused by the usb" A USB socket does not draw any current when nothing is plugged in.

A well designed one will draw almost no current when nothing is plugged in; a baaaaad one will draw more.  Best to measure the current draw with a multimeter and make your own mind up.  If it is more than a few milliamps when it is 'off' I suggest that you either connect it to a switched live or disconnect it from the battery when you are not using it (luckily this is easy as it has an in-line connector).

Or just pull the fuse out

Am I right in thinking these are the correct auto fuses for the optimate lead?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Water-Blade-Fuses-Caravan-Purple/dp/B00OXM8SCS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1526929359&sr=8-11&keywords=fuse+3+amp

obviously non standard looking. thanks

Yes, a Standard Blade Fuse.

You would do better to get a pack of assorted fuses from your local motorist discount store. Then you have fuses for different systems on your bike/car

e.g. Halfrauds  and possibly cheaper elsewhere...

just make sure you get Standard and not mini or micro blade fuses.