Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

Oil filter change

fgclark123
fgclark123
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Oil filter change Empty Oil filter change

Post by fgclark123 on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 12:41 pm

Hi,

I just read in the Haynes guide, that "to tihten the filter to the specific torque, it is necessary to remove the exhaust system to gain access with a torque wrench".

affraid 

Anyone know if that's really necessary? God I really don't want to remove the exhaust headers for this job...

Also, what is the specific torque anyway?

Thanks very much
fgclark123
fgclark123
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Oil filter change Empty Re: Oil filter change

Post by fgclark123 on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 12:43 pm

Ok, just saw the torque is 10nm - anyone know how I measure newton metres on a strap wrench?
ceejay
ceejay
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Post by ceejay on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 1:54 pm

I've never removed the exhaust header to change the filter because that is going to be a much larger, more painful job at a later date  Very Happy

I use a strap wrench as you say and just use feel to get 10nm (10nm is not much but at the same time you obviously don't want it falling off!). On my car I only ever put the filter on by hand and I can still never get the thing off without a battle when it comes to changing it. I can't remember if I do my cb500 or not by hand but i think I have nipped it up with a strap wrench in the past. I guess it can be a dangerous game because if the aluminium thread but no way I'm taking exhaust header off each time  Surprised
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 4:48 pm

Lube the O ring with oil and tighten it by hand. I actually use both hands but have never had one come loose.
The K+N filters I have used for many years have a hex boss on the end to make it easy enough to remove.
skyrider
skyrider
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Post by skyrider on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 5:57 pm

I sometimes think people get carried away with torque settings on their bolts etc if people are spinning spanners and start stripping threads then they are a gorilla and shouldn't be in charge of workshop tools anyway, I once had a 125 twin yam and in desperation in trying to remove the spark plugs I had to use a length of car exhaust pipe on the end of the plug spanner and praying it wouldn't strip the threads on the way out , so the bike previously belonged to an ape who wanted his pods rubbing with a cactus plant affraid
Jameshambleton
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Post by Jameshambleton on Sat 18 Nov 2017, 10:42 pm

Remove the 0 ring on the filter, coat it in oil, reinsert it into the recess on the filter.
Tighten by hand until it seats and then grab it with you hands and turn it another 1 to 1.5 turns and that'll be good, take it for a decent run. if there is a little bit of weeping then just tighten it more.
Melitos
Melitos
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Post by Melitos on Thu 07 Dec 2017, 6:52 pm

@Jameshambleton wrote:Remove the 0 ring on the filter, coat it in oil, reinsert it into the recess on the filter.
Tighten by hand until it seats and then grab it with you hands and turn it another 1 to 1.5 turns and that'll be good, take it for a decent run. if there is a little bit of weeping then just tighten it more.

affraid 1 to 1.5 turns after the o-ring seats sounds awfully lot but maybe the thread is very fine on the CB, cannot remember really. For cars I have typically only tightened about 90 to 180 degrees and never had any problems.

BR,
Antti
skyrider
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Post by skyrider on Thu 07 Dec 2017, 6:57 pm

if in doubt read my previous post Neutral
eternally_troubled
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Post by eternally_troubled on Fri 08 Dec 2017, 7:22 pm

@Melitos wrote:
@Jameshambleton wrote:Remove the 0 ring on the filter, coat it in oil, reinsert it into the recess on the filter.
Tighten by hand until it seats and then grab it with you hands and turn it another 1 to 1.5 turns and that'll be good, take it for a decent run. if there is a little bit of weeping then just tighten it more.


:affraid: 1 to 1.5 turns after the o-ring seats sounds awfully lot but maybe the thread is very fine on the CB, cannot remember really. For cars I have typically only tightened about 90 to 180 degrees and never had any problems.

BR,
Antti

I've no idea how many turns it is; I just use my hand (rather than a tool) to tighten it and have never had a problem. If it leaks it is usually because the the sealing surface is not clean or has been damaged.

I have had to use tools to remove oil filters that other people have done up too tight...
skyerae
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Post by skyerae on Sat 09 Dec 2017, 9:00 am

I had to hammer a screwdriver through mine (in two places) to get it to turn. I bought the bike with this filter on it and I had left it on through two biking seasons (and for too long) and it looked like it was nearly rusted through. I normally tighten them by hand but had a K&N one with the hex boss on the end and a light use torque wrench which did the job. Need to do it all again this winter before next years biking season starts again.
Jameshambleton
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Post by Jameshambleton on Sat 09 Dec 2017, 9:26 am

@Melitos wrote:
@Jameshambleton wrote:Remove the 0 ring on the filter, coat it in oil, reinsert it into the recess on the filter.
Tighten by hand until it seats and then grab it with you hands and turn it another 1 to 1.5 turns and that'll be good, take it for a decent run. if there is a little bit of weeping then just tighten it more.


affraid 1 to 1.5 turns after the o-ring seats sounds awfully lot but maybe the thread is very fine on the CB, cannot remember really. For cars I have typically only tightened about 90 to 180 degrees and never had any problems.

BR,
Antti

I just grab both and hands around it and keep turning until it stops. Comes free everytime without issue though!
skyrider
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Post by skyrider on Sat 09 Dec 2017, 6:01 pm

if you need to use stilsons the bike used to belong to the ape that owned my AS3

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