Getting too hot stationery while idling on a stop after long drive?

Hey guys, today, I will put down the head hopefully..

But before that I want to figure out if there is something else wrong.
I'm worried because when I tried to turn the engine while in top gear through the rear wheel to check valve clearances, it was almost impossible ( had to put a lot of force just to turn it a bit)
I got ratchet and turned the alternator rotor which was easier but there was a bit of resistance in the beginning,  then rolls easy almost by itself, then again resistance.

The spark plugs were removed  

When you turned your engines manually while checking the valve clearances did you experience something similar or how did the turning felt ?

I wouldn't say it was easy to turn the engine over by using the back wheel, but it shouldn't be too difficult.

As I recall it certainly wasn't a big problem to turn it over using the wrench on the alternator with the spark-plugs taken out and in neutral gear (so you don't have to turn the whole drive-train/wheel).

The turning felt fairly smooth, but remember you are also turning the valve gear (assuming the chain/cams etc all are still connected) so there is still some notchiness as the valves are opened (as you overcome the force created by the spring).

I've just recently done my valve clearances and would agree as above - some resistance as you turn the crank nut is to be expected as you are working the camshaft lobes against the valves on each cylinder. At other points in the rotation it will turn more easily.

Also on mine the timing marks didn't align perfectly either - like you, about half a tooth out. I set the clearances with the camshaft marks in the right place and couldn't make this align perfectly with the timing mark in the inspection hole. But it was better than I started with. Perhaps it is camchain stretch? But I decided not to try and go down the chain replacement route...I'll save that for when the bike hits 200,000 miles (maybe  )

@eternally_troubled wrote:I wouldn't say it was easy to turn the engine over by using the back wheel, but it shouldn't be too difficult.

As I recall it certainly wasn't a big problem to turn it over using the wrench on the alternator with the spark-plugs taken out and in neutral gear (so you don't have to turn the whole drive-train/wheel).

The turning felt fairly smooth, but remember you are also turning the valve gear (assuming the chain/cams etc all are still connected) so there is still some notchiness as the valves are opened (as you overcome the force created by the spring).

It was a piece of pie with a ratchet on the alternator but almost impossible with the wheel. With it, it is completely impossible to align the marks - if I pull on the spokes hard, it will rotate but will be uncontrollable by how much. It feels like the wheel is locked till I don't pull hard on it... I did it in 6th gear and spark plugs out.  A person told me that could be from pistons scraping the cylinder walls...\

Anyways I put the head off and have taken some pictures  

Taking off the head while keeping the chain from falling down made me put one hand between the head and block to support the head while with the other I took the chain out of the head and put it on the side of the block where it was supported by its own weight. But with my hand between the block and head, I contaminated all traces from a head gasket leak by smearing oil and coolant around... It is really hard to say if there was leak.. The head is not warped also.

I checked if the valves are sealing properly with pouring some gasoline in the intake and exhaust ports - no leaks





On one of valve lifters(followers) on the picture below there is circular wear mark but cannot be felt with a finger or nail. Also I measured them with the straigth edge to check if they are flat and not concave - passed.







Some weird looking wear on the lobes on the picture below but nothing that can be felt with a finger.






I don't know if this is on the picture below is wear from the chain or was out from the factory like that.



On the picture below, I cleaned the pistons and cylinder walls a bit with gasoline dampened rag and smeared them with wd40 to protect them from rust for now. What it worries me are those vertical lines on the cylinder wall .. Piston scraping ? Early failure of piston rings ? Nothing ?    On the picture looks worse that it is in reality - nothing to be felt with finger and hard to see without good amount of light.



I got advised to check the water pump drainage hole for leaks if the sealings are busted. Well, as you can see from the picture there was something draining, but now was unfortunately dry.. So I don't know if the previous owner fixed it or not..



I have 3 theories how those combustion gasses get in the coolant.

1. The head gasket gave up. Unfortunately no signs of that and without the head being warped it is unlikely head gasket to go bad.
2. Crack somewhere - Highly unlikely on this engine as I read.
3.  Pistons rings failing a bit and creating pressure in the crankcase, which leads to the seals of the water pump to give up and the pump is  pumping combustion gasses in the coolant..

Today, I will open up the water pump