Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

Rear Axle bolt removal

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Jameshambleton
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Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by Jameshambleton on Wed 30 Mar 2016, 6:39 pm

Once again.. My rear axle bolt has seized in so anyone got any suggesting apart from belting it with a hammer as that's not doing anything. The 19mm nut on one else is starting to round off too and that won't move. Took my torque wrench to it and its seized with at least 100nm of force and yes I did take the nut off the other end of the bolt first! 

Last time it seized I took it to the garage to get the tyre changed and it took them about 20mins to remove the bolt, apparently they used a big hammer to do it.
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liverpool_f_
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by liverpool_f_ on Wed 30 Mar 2016, 6:50 pm

Sounds like a job for the big hammer! Don't hammer the end of the axle too hard though or you will deform it. Put the nut back on loosely and hammer the nut. Also, give the wheel a jiggle as you hammer to free it up. Try some Plusgas on it as well so long as you can keep it away from the brakes. 

Consider a new axle or at least attacking it with a wire wheel before putting it back
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skyrider
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by skyrider on Wed 30 Mar 2016, 7:10 pm

keeping whacking it with a big hammer aint doing things any good at all its just knocking other things to bits do you grease the spindle before you put it back ?
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by Jameshambleton on Wed 30 Mar 2016, 7:49 pm

skyrider wrote:keeping whacking it with a big hammer aint doing things any good at all its just knocking other things to bits do you grease the spindle before you put it back ?

When I was able to yes, it was coated in copperease. Last time it was stuck I took it to the garage and they changed the tyre at the same time so I definetly know that they were able to remove it. But It hasn't come out since...
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jerryfudd
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by jerryfudd on Wed 30 Mar 2016, 11:43 pm

out of interest has it moved any at all? sometimes if the wheel goes on the wonky as they are removed it can bite down on the axle.

also if the garage removed it with a big hammer last time maybe they didn't use a nut as has been said and distorted the end making it slightly larger?
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davebike500
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by davebike500 on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 11:47 am

Big hammer and if you have it a "soft" drift alloy  copper brass etc

Don't use copper slip on shafts!  like wheel spindles  use LM grease copper slip is anti size but not fro moving parts
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jim157
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by jim157 on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 3:02 pm

You use a torque wrench to loosen bolts?
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by Jameshambleton on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 3:57 pm

I've got it booked in at the garage as they said they lubricated the spindle/bolt last time.  It's booked in for Wednesday afternoon and they've said that they'll also change my brake disc at the same time.


jerryfudd wrote:out of interest has it moved any at all? sometimes if the wheel goes on the wonky as they are removed it can bite down on the axle.

also if the garage removed it with a big hammer last time maybe they didn't use a nut as has been said and distorted the end making it slightly larger?
Nope not even 1mm it's stuck in there good n proper.  


davebike500 wrote:Big hammer and if you have it a "soft" drift alloy  copper brass etc 

Don't use copper slip on shafts!  like wheel spindles  use LM grease copper slip is anti size but not fro moving parts

Hasn't worked but then again I don't have the biggest of hammers... I prefer to use tools rather than the Clarkson method. I need to get myself some of that grease, it's one thing that I don't have.

jim157 wrote:You use a torque wrench to loosen bolts?
The nut comes off find with my normal 1/2" drive. On the other end of the axle bolt there is a nut and washer attached to it. I've tried to loosen the bolt or even to see if it would turn in either direction and it won't.. it's just starting to round the head off...
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skyrider
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by skyrider on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 7:12 pm

do you think some grease monkey has cross threaded the nut and knackered the threads if so put in for a new axle bolt and nut off them and tell them its their fault
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ANDYC
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by ANDYC on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 7:14 pm

davebike500 wrote:Big hammer and if you have it a "soft" drift alloy  copper brass etc

Don't use copper slip on shafts!  like wheel spindles  use LM grease copper slip is anti size but not fro moving parts



There is something seriously wrong if the wheel spindles are moving Very Happy  nothing is meant to move on it. I have always used copperslip on wheel spindles, engine mounting bolts and swingarm spindles. LM grease is good for the moving parts like bearings and speedo drive gears.
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by Jameshambleton on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 7:41 pm

ANDYC wrote:
davebike500 wrote:Big hammer and if you have it a "soft" drift alloy  copper brass etc

Don't use copper slip on shafts!  like wheel spindles  use LM grease copper slip is anti size but not fro moving parts

There is something seriously wrong if the wheel spindles are moving Very Happy  nothing is meant to move on it. I have always used copperslip on wheel spindles, engine mounting bolts and swingarm spindles. LM grease is good for the moving parts like bearings and speedo drive gears.

I thought you wasn't suppose to use copperslip on the engine bolts as it reacts with the aluminium and causes them to seize faster? Also I'll be creating a new topic about this one shortly Wink
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jonny10
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by jonny10 on Fri 01 Apr 2016, 3:21 pm

Jameshambleton wrote:

I thought you wasn't suppose to use copperslip on the engine bolts as it reacts with the aluminium and causes them to seize faster?

It's the other way round; it's for use between steel & aluminium/alloy to prevent them seizing together. No good as a lubricant though.
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ANDYC
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by ANDYC on Fri 01 Apr 2016, 5:59 pm

It's the electrolytic reaction between aluminium and steel that causes them to seem to weld themselves together, the copperslip acts as a barrier to prevent this process. There are proper barrier compounds to do this but they are hard to get and expensive, so copperslip works as a cheaper readily available substitute. It seems they are so expensive and hard to find that even the mighty Honda don't bother with it on the mounting bolts as many of us have found to our cost Rolling Eyes
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skyrider
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by skyrider on Fri 01 Apr 2016, 6:55 pm

just found out that im in more or less the same boat as james I checked the thread on my rear  axle nut and found out there wasn't any  Crying or Very sad
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eternally_troubled
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Re: Rear Axle bolt removal

Post by eternally_troubled on Mon 04 Apr 2016, 1:32 pm

skyrider wrote:just found out that im in more or less the same boat as james I checked the thread on my rear  axle nut and found out there wasn't any  :cry:

If you think about how often you undo the rear wheel nut (chain adjustment, new tyres, brake discs/pads etc) and how manky it often is at the rear of the bike it's not really surprising that it wears eventually :)

James - you mentionted that you didn't have a big hammer in your tool kit? In my experience sometimes a big hammer is the right tool - the key part is realising when this is/isn't the case!

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