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Front engine mounting bolt

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Jameshambleton
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Front engine mounting bolt

Post by Jameshambleton on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 9:19 am

I need to replace the engine spacers as both of them are crumbling and well.. it's not really ideal is it? My problem is that the mounting bolt is seized in place. 
Would using an impact driver on the bold possibly crack the engine mounts?
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jerryfudd
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 9:51 am

I haven't had much experience with impact equipment but I wouldn't tbh.

If it was me id knock out any remaining spacer that you say are falling apart then heavily coat with PlusGas now that you'll have better access to where it passes through the engine mount on both sides and then run the engine till its really hot, use some more PlusGas then gently try and remove with as shallow a socket as but with a long handle (I use some scaff pole over the end) and gentley tweak it out not forgetting to keep applying that PlusGas and keep it hot - also can try undoing and then doing it back up to get the release fluid right in there.

Loads of threads on getting them out by all sorts of methods, but id of thought the impact might be a bit heavy handed.

Dan
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teamster1975
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by teamster1975 on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 9:52 am

Before you go anywhere near it with an impact driver soak it over several days in Plusgas.
I had to give up in the end and get a garage to remove mine, apparently they had to cut the bolt in half and apply lots of heat!

Edit: jerryfudd beat me to it Razz
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jerryfudd
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 10:00 am

might be a good idea to replace the bolt either way so you'll have plenty of strength in it for time after and use plenty of copper slip on it for the refitment might be a good shout.
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by Jameshambleton on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 10:41 am

I've been looking at a new bolt and spacers from bike-parts-honda it seems strange how you can only get the spacers listed on some years and not others even though they're the exact same part. Parts: 90105-GE0-000 and 50350-MY5-860 I've been applying wd40 to try to keep the rotting and water at bay since she's in use everyday but I don't think the bolt will have ever been removed since the bike was made in '97.
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jerryfudd
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 10:46 am

I might be corrected by I don't believe WD40 will be the best for doing that, maybe GT85 as it disperses water or ACF50 as it seems good for all occasions.

As for not appearing on some diagrams are you sure you aren't looking at the faired 'S' models as they don't use spacers IIRC which is something to do with the additional brace they have on the downtubes which the naked bike doesn't.

Dan

EDIT: I did a quick Google and although it seems WD stands for water dispersing I also read its hygroscopic and will attract moisture where, I believe GT85 should be better as it leaves teflon behind - http://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
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eternally_troubled
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by eternally_troubled on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 1:27 pm

All good advise about how to remove it.

If yours is as corroded as mine then I bet you won't be able to remove it (I haven't got mine out yet - I might put it off for a while!) - I'm expecting to have to cut a chunk out of mine and hammer/drill/heat it out.

I reckon it might be worth trying the impact driver, just before the point of giving up and cutting it out, however I would have tried a more controlled form of leverage (like jerryfuds socket with a bit of long pipe) first.
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jerryfudd
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 1:37 pm

if it helps when I did mine (in the fashion I described) I was gently pulling on the pipe and it wasn't going so decided the job was getting one way or another so pulled a bit harder and could see the head twisting so was sure it was coming off (the head) then there was a loud crack as it seemed to almost jump around a quarter turn but to my surpise it was still in tact and came out.

Just remembered after that in conjunction with some turning I also used a punch and some studding to knock it out going in from the nut side, only problem with that is careful not to mushroom the end of the bolt up too much as that has so pass through the engine mounts.

Dan
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rhyshrc
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by rhyshrc on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 3:59 pm

1) remove nut
2) heat up bolt (a lot) with a plumbers blowtorch or similar.
3) throw a bucket of cold water over bolt
4) repeat number 2
5) use an air impact gun 5 seconds forwards 5 seconds backwards continually whilst a friend wacks the thread side of the bolt with a big hammer
6) start again at 2


I have used this method to remove 3 engines works fine and doesn't damage anything. I used no branded penetrating oil as that's what I had laying around.

It doesn't matter if you remove spacers or not from experience, but if you do remove them you can see if you are about to snap the bolt from the rotational force with it being seized in the casing.

Keep trying and it will come loose, you shouldn't have to cut it out unless you have a very rough bike that's done a lot of miles.
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rhyshrc
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by rhyshrc on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 4:07 pm

ps don't jump on a breaker bar it will snap the bolt
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sullivj
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by sullivj on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 4:21 pm

And post some pics of your progress.. We love a pic!

Good luck.
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by Jameshambleton on Fri 29 Jan 2016, 10:49 pm

I've just had a better look tonight and only half of the spacer remains on both sides so it's definitely a job worth that needs doing. The underside has gone completely it's most likely somewhere down the A1 or all over Yorkshire and Cumbria.. oops
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by Jameshambleton on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 7:57 pm

Update: crumbling spacer as now completely vanished so this need doing shortly

What sort of bolt should I get? stainless or mild steel or even something else and which would be less likely to seize in the engine again? 

What leigh should I get as I have the OE Honda crash bars and I'm not too sure if there is a difference in length between the stock bolt or not. Exploded diagrams on lings and others say the bolt is in fact the sidestand  Rolling Eyes so suggestions are welcomed...

What should the bolt be coated with to help prevent the commercial reaction and is it recommend to keep rotating the bolt every so often to prevent it seizing again.
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geoffnorfolk
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by geoffnorfolk on Thu 31 Mar 2016, 10:57 pm

Don't know if it's quite the same as my Honda Deauville but I couldn't get the front engine bolt out so knocked off the broken spacer which had totally disintegrated....... then cut a new spacer in half, put it round the exposed engine mounting bolt where the spacer was, put a jubilee clip round it to hold it together and then retightened the nut.  Seemed to work ok.
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eternally_troubled
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by eternally_troubled on Mon 04 Apr 2016, 1:25 pm

@Jameshambleton wrote:Update: crumbling spacer as now completely vanished so this need doing shortly

What sort of bolt should I get? stainless or mild steel or even something else and which would be less likely to seize in the engine again? 

What leigh should I get as I have the OE Honda crash bars and I'm not too sure if there is a difference in length between the stock bolt or not. Exploded diagrams on lings and others say the bolt is in fact the sidestand  :roll: so suggestions are welcomed...

What should the bolt be coated with to help prevent the commercial reaction and is it recommend to keep rotating the bolt every so often to prevent it seizing again.

Getting a stainless one will help, but you will still need to cover it in grease and turn it every year (you could probably get away with every 5 years, but you wouldn't want to replace it again). If you do end up with stainless make sure you get a suitably strong one (I think the grade is called A5?) - probably expensive so you might be better just going for a plain steel one and extra grease :)
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Jameshambleton
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by Jameshambleton on Mon 04 Apr 2016, 4:20 pm

Do you know if the bolt for the Honda crash bars is 10mm longer than the stock one?
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burning_rubber
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by burning_rubber on Mon 02 Jan 2017, 11:37 am

@rhyshrc wrote:1) remove nut
2) heat up bolt (a lot) with a plumbers blowtorch or similar.
3) throw a bucket of cold water over bolt
4) repeat number 2
5) use an air impact gun 5 seconds forwards 5 seconds backwards continually whilst a friend wacks the thread side of the bolt with a big hammer
6) start again at 2

this worked for me, after the bolt being stuck for 20 years 
but impact gun, and the addition of plus gas
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stormbringer
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by stormbringer on Mon 02 Jan 2017, 9:04 pm

Would this be of any use to you: The best DIY penetrating oil?
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freeride
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Re: Front engine mounting bolt

Post by freeride on Mon 02 Jan 2017, 10:57 pm

If you do split the engine mount and the oil starts leaking out I cleaned the split several times with meths and then used Liquid Metal to seal the leak and it's been on like that for a good three years and no leaks. It passes an MOT every year with a missing engine mount. I have a pair of crank cases to swop over but I have no leaks so I haven't bothered to strip it all down yet.

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