Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

My Track bike project

ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Mon 12 Dec 2016, 5:34 pm

It's always nice to see new stuff for a project arrive Laughing 
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Llewelyn1965
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Post by Llewelyn1965 on Mon 12 Dec 2016, 10:43 pm

that looks nice
Jameshambleton
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Post by Jameshambleton on Sun 08 Jan 2017, 7:52 pm

I've heard of nitron before they're on par with ohlins but without the price tag aren't they?
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Sun 08 Jan 2017, 8:11 pm

I'll let you know. I've used Ohlins in the past and they are very good but the price was out of my range. So I decided to give this a go. I'm under no illusions and I will find out my limits before the bike does. I can honestly say that I never used the Ohlins to its full capabilities.
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Post by mart on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 8:26 am

Andyc, have you thought about fitting slipper clutch to this engine?
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Post by mart on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 8:30 am

Andyc, have you thought about fitting slipper clutch to this engine?

 p.s Sorry about wrong color in the last post.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 11:34 am

I have indeed, in fact there aren't many parts (if any) that I haven't looked at ways of improving in weight, strength, reliability, efficiency or just looks.
The slipper clutch is something that I don't really need at present, although it may be useful due to the increased engine braking in the future.
My present dilema is whether or not to use an alloy frame and shed 7kg over the steel one.
Along with the increase in stiffness and better suited riding position. Along with many other benefits.
What do you guys think?
jerryfudd
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Post by jerryfudd on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 12:05 pm

Triggers broom Smile

Need to keep some identity and as the CBF runs the same lump the only real identity lies in the frame - even if it does get chopped around as some do. For me it's the swing arm mount which makes it instantly recognisable as a CB500.

On a side note talking about the slipper, and not necessarily for a CB how do you go about looking for aftermarket clutches? ....something I'm clueless about lol

Dan


Last edited by jerryfudd on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 12:08 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Should add that it already looks like it's going to be an awesome machine)
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 2:25 pm

Just clutch plates or the whole assembly?
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Post by jerryfudd on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 2:48 pm

both really, had been considering changing plate my other bike but didn't know where to start of not OE
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Tue 17 Jan 2017, 3:22 pm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-CK-FRICTION-CLUTCH-PLATE-SET-FITS-HONDA-CB-500-TWIN-1994-2003-/131742235792?hash=item1eac72fc90:g:YbkAAOSwvgdW3tPx

This is a pretty good one for normal road use.
If you want race or serious riding and can handle a grabby clutch pic up then this may be the one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-SRK-Complete-Clutch-Kit-For-Honda-1994-CBR400-NC29-Gull-Arm-SRK049-/311022061691?hash=item486a5c087b:g:XmUAAOSwPhdU2YSv

This is the one that my track bike will be using.

Changing the whole basket assembly is a lot more involved. Not really necessary unless you have serious power gains.
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Post by jerryfudd on Fri 20 Jan 2017, 3:21 pm

great, thank you for that.

Dan
l.t.racing
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Post by l.t.racing on Thu 26 Jan 2017, 10:52 am

The colis/ plug caps your using, what benifit do these have.   Looking very good. Will be mint once done.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Thu 26 Jan 2017, 11:14 am

@l.t.racing wrote:The colis/ plug caps your using, what benifit do these have.   Looking very good. Will be mint once done.



They're lighter, more compact and give a stronger more accurate spark. As they don't have the leads and plug caps to deal with, which in turn means less to go wrong Very Happy
l.t.racing
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Post by l.t.racing on Thu 26 Jan 2017, 11:29 am

Ya and its hard to get good coils these days can get brand new pattern item from company deal with but sooner have oem.    Were did you buy these from?  Thanks
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Thu 26 Jan 2017, 11:32 am

I break bikes for a living now.
If you take a look at my coil upgrade thread it will tell you more.
I have one pair left if you're interested.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Tue 21 Feb 2017, 6:21 pm

I decided to go with an alloy frame as it gives me a whole host of other options to work with in the future. 
It does bring it's own issues that I will have to deal with, but the benefits outweigh the problems I believe.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Fri 10 Mar 2017, 9:00 am

I've been too busy to really do much with this project at the moment. 
However due to the fact that I will be raising the rev limit on this engine I'm trying to build in a certain amount of reliability too. For this reason I have sourced a set of race valve springs that use a double spring system. These arrived yesterday and measure up perfectly. Very Happy
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Post by Beresford on Fri 10 Mar 2017, 12:44 pm

@ANDYC wrote:I have sourced a set of race valve springs that use a double spring system.
Double springs are good for avoiding harmonic fatigue failure, but tread carefully that you do not raise the camshaft on-the-nose pressure too much otherwise you'll be chewing through cam followers.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Fri 10 Mar 2017, 5:45 pm

Being a track bike the mileage will be very low compared to my old work bike, and as the springs are actually Kibblewhite ones to suit this valve train but with higher lift cams there shouldn't be a problem.
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Post by ANDYC on Sun 19 Mar 2017, 4:04 pm

A little progress has been made, I replaced the output shaft bearings and rebuilt the gearbox so I'm a bit closer to getting the engine built up Very Happy
The spacer between the bearing and the sprocket is too tatty to go back on, so I'll make one out of either aluminium or stainless steel as soon as my lathe is back up and running. Which should be by next weekend.
I know Honda and Haynes manuals say that the main bearing with the snap ring can't be replaced and you have to buy the complete shaft assembly for an extortional amount (£280ish), but what do they know? Very Happy
The ice on the shaft in the first picture is a result of it being in the freezer for a while. It was wrapped in cling film I hasten to add.
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ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Thu 23 Mar 2017, 5:30 pm

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Isn't it much better in stainless steel Very Happy
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Sun 07 May 2017, 4:05 pm

I've actually got around to adding a bit more to my project bike now.
As I set myself a pretty high target for the power output of this, I knew that it would need to be a bit extreme.
Well here is where it begins.
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A pair of Keihin FCR39 carbs. I waited patiently until they came at a decent price.
Probably more than some some guys paid for there whole bike but they were neccesary.
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The intake path is now a much straighter run into the cylinder. I had to make intake spigots myself to suit the ports on the 500.
They are hellishly expensive and nobody stocks the dimensions that I wanted anyway. I tapered the bore down from 39mm to 35mm
to smooth and speed up the airflow. The shorter one in the picture below is the size I needed.
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At present they are individual carbs set up for a racing SV650, but I will be linking them up to run a single cable and fuel line to simplify things.
I'll also be using filters rather than the open bellmouths that you see. The thought of going down in a gravel trap with the engine running just doesn't sit right with me.
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Post by Beresford on Sun 07 May 2017, 8:05 pm

@ANDYC wrote:
The intake path is now a much straighter run into the cylinder. I had to make intake spigots myself to suit the ports on the 500.

I'll also be using filters rather than the open bellmouths that you see. The thought of going down in a gravel trap with the engine running just doesn't sit right with me.

I hope you mean that the filters will be over the bell mouths, not instead of.
ANDYC
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Post by ANDYC on Sun 07 May 2017, 8:11 pm

Different adapters are used to clamp the filters to so the bellmouths will be replaced.

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