Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

Throttle body stud

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muttley1
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Throttle body stud

Post by muttley1 on Thu 15 Jan 2015, 8:11 pm

Hi,
finally got some adjustable ace bars so time to go for a cafe racer look. Offhand, anyone know how far in from the end of the righthand bar to drill the little hole for the switchgear?

cheers


muttley1


Last edited by muttley1 on Thu 15 Jan 2015, 8:11 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling)
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 16 Jan 2015, 7:26 am

I'll have a measure and take a pic for you - I have a stock set which aren't on the bike at the moment
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Fri 16 Jan 2015, 12:26 pm



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eternally_troubled
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by eternally_troubled on Fri 16 Jan 2015, 12:55 pm

Have you got a picture/link of/to the bars you are going to try out?

sullivj
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by sullivj on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 7:57 am

Haven't you got a proper ruler Dan?... Take one of mine tonight - I've got spares.

When the end sliders get worn, these recoil tapes become somewhat inaccurate. Yours looks OK for now though...
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 8:46 am

it's hardly used, I keep in the house as far too big to be useful elsewhere its a 'Fat Max' Stanley one and it's what I had to hand before having to rush out the door for work
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teamster1975
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by teamster1975 on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 9:23 am

@sullivj wrote:Haven't you got a proper ruler Dan?... Take one of mine tonight - I've got spares.

When the end sliders get worn, these recoil tapes become somewhat inaccurate. Yours looks OK for now though...

Always measure from the 100mm mark, you will always get a correct measurement (but don't forget to deduct 100mm!)
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 9:30 am

That's funny as I normally do except easier said than done when trying to hold a handlebar, tape and phone Smile
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teamster1975
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by teamster1975 on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 9:32 am

@jerryfudd wrote:That's funny as I normally do except easier said than done when trying to hold a handlebar, tape and phone Smile

Agree with that, you need twenty hands!

sullivj
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by sullivj on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 11:27 am

Or a proper ruler...!

muttley1
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by muttley1 on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 2:14 pm

Thanks !

Tape measure for me, here's the pic.

http://illiweb.com/fa/pbucket.gif

Might be a bit tight with the master cylinder but we'll see.

muttley1
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Beresford
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by Beresford on Sat 17 Jan 2015, 7:08 pm

I like those ! Who made them and what price ?
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eternally_troubled
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by eternally_troubled on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 12:15 pm

@muttley1 wrote:Thanks !

Tape measure for me, here's the pic.

http://illiweb.com/fa/pbucket.gif

Might be a bit tight with the master cylinder but we'll see.

muttley1

Good luck! I thought you might be putting ace bars on. You'll have to post a picture if you get it to work.
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Basil Moss
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by Basil Moss on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 3:56 pm

Cool! Adjustable!

Measure two or three times before you drill.
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Basil Moss
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by Basil Moss on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 3:58 pm

The "rotation" is as important as the distance, it's worth having the old bars off to eyeball, and fitting the ace bars and putting all the gubbins in place so you can be sure you get that right. You want the right direction of pull on the brake levers etc, and think hard about it because that direction is a tad different with lower, further away bars.
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 4:34 pm

@Basil Moss wrote:The "rotation" is as important as the distance, it's worth having the old bars off to eyeball, and fitting the ace bars and putting all the gubbins in place so you can be sure you get that right. You want the right direction of pull on the brake levers etc, and think hard about it because that direction is a tad different with lower, further away bars.

Just having the same 'rotation' issue with some renthals I bought can't figure where to drill the lug - is it absolutely necessary to drill it as opposed to removing it from the controls?

sullivj
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by sullivj on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 4:46 pm

The twist grip needs to be anchored to the bars to stop it rotating.

If you remove the pin, you'll need to think of a better way of holding it in place...l
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 4:58 pm

oh dear...... seems like allot of commitment!

muttley1
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by muttley1 on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 5:11 pm

HI,

bars came from fleabay, private seller and I paid £17 or so iirc.

Have had jota bars on before and yep, think twice before drilling, the same as for fitting renthals - I put all the bar fittings on loosely before committing drill to metal!
 
I'll be putting on some bar end mirrors so will drill fractionally further in than needed so my gloves or the twistgrip doesn't clip the mirror fittings...

Pics to follow in a week or two...
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Basil Moss
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by Basil Moss on Sun 18 Jan 2015, 6:36 pm

Look forward to seeing it!
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 12:04 am

has anyone actually removed the locator pin? I've been searching and for as many people who say they drilled them there an an equal number saying absolutely don't (including Renthal) - maybe just more of a divided opinion if you are replacing with ally bars?

From what I've read if you are going to drill they say don't rely on the stock measurement from the end - especially if you are using different end weights of grips, put masking tape
on so that fitting will indent the tape to give you a marking and ideally use a pillar drill and don't go all the way through (ahem..... sullivj? I know you have one Laughing).

Still concerned about rotation though, is there no accurate way of telling at what the stock rotation is or at the very least making sure you put the hole at the same rotation on both ends for the other switch gear?

sullivj
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by sullivj on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 6:31 am

Of course, you can use my drill.

Do you need a hole on the LHS? I thought it was just the RHS.

Of the people that remove the pin, how did they stop the RHS switchgear from rotating? I wouldn't want to rely on just the casing screws to pinch it to the bar.

If I needed to make this hole, I would wrap a few rounds of making tape  on the bar with it on the bike, in about the right place for the kill switch. Offer up the throttle gear, with the throttle tube in situ (for length). 

Adjust for the comfortable orientation and then tighten the switch gear enough for the switch gear to indent the tape.  Then remove and drill.


Last edited by sullivj on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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jerryfudd
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by jerryfudd on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 6:44 am

thanks...... yes one on both sides.

they seem to just hold it on the casing screws despite the general opinion being its very easy to break of you grind on it too hard so if it's still loose they pad out the bar with insulation tape or some sort of rubberised tape which I've forgotten the name of now - or a 'dab' of weld something?
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eternally_troubled
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by eternally_troubled on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 1:33 pm

Whatever the internet says you are better drilling the hole:  it *can't* rotate then!

You just need to make sure you get it in the right place :)

It may be a urban myth but I've heard that Honda decided to put that protrusion on the throttle side switch gear (and hence have a hole to locate it in) after loosing a race because the throttle slipped round...

If you were to do without it you would need something like tape to make the bar fatter and give the plastic something to dig into.
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Llewelyn1965
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Re: Throttle body stud

Post by Llewelyn1965 on Mon 19 Jan 2015, 2:05 pm

I have insulation tape on mine. Was there when I bought the bike. Didn't even know until I needed to remove the switch for something. Now I can't get the bloody thing to stay still. Can result in some interesting riding at times!!!! I have new bars and new (second hand) switches now so I can put it right. I don't understand why the pillock removed the locator lugs on the switches instead of drilling new hles in the bars.

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