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spitonyourgrave22
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Download Workshop Guide

Post by spitonyourgrave22 on Sat 30 Oct 2010, 5:07 am

How to service the CB500 all by yourself

Warning
Before you plunge into the work read through the whole of this guide. If you have any doubts about your ability, get help from a mechanically-minded friend or leave selected tasks to the garage. Start with easy tasks and build up your skill level gradually.
Before you start
If have indoor workspace, have a good tidy up and get some bright lights in. If you are forced to work outside, pick a sunny day and allow yourself plenty of time if this is your first go.
Remember that spannering is potentially dangerous. Cuts and bruises are common, so wear gloves and keep a first-aid kit handy. Make sure someone knows what you are up to and can check on you from time to time, preferably with tea.
Service schedule
The CB's service schedule is one every 4000 miles or 6 months, alternating between minor and major services. There is also a monster service at 16,000 miles which includes a valve clearance check (not covered here). Here's the schedule:
 
What you will need
Tools Suprisingly few tools are needed, but they should be good quality. Don't use the Honda tool kit supplied except for emergencies, and avoid cheap tools, they don't last. Go for something mid-priced like Draper or Halfords. You can get away without a torque wrench for basic servicing, but it is very useful tool and essential for more advanced work. Approximate prices are indicated. You will need:
A basic socket set including a long extension for the rachet handle £30
A 24mm socket for the rear axle nut (if not included in the set) £4
A 16mm spark plug socket (if not included in the set) £4
A torque wrench that can work up to 100 Nm / 75 lbs-ft £35
A set of allen (hex) bits to fit on your rachet £10
A set of spanners 5mm-20mm with one open end and one ring end £15
Large and medium flat head and posi-drive (cross-head) screwdrivers £15
Spark plug feeler gauge (including 0.8mm feeler) £5
Service parts (all services)
Oil filter Honda (or equivalent) £8 (£5)
4 litres of good quality semi-synthetic motorcycle oil £20
Service parts (major services only)
2 x NGK CR8EH-9 spark plugs (or CR9EH-9 for distance work) £12
Air filter Honda (or equivalent) £12 (£Cool
Other bits and bobs
Some clean non-fluffy rags
A can of WD-40
Some standard (LM) grease
Some copper grease (Coppaslip)
Let's get started
First, give the bike a thorough wash, checking over it for loose or missing bolts, rust, cracks and other faults as you go along.
Start the engine and let it warm up to normal temperature, and meanwhile go through those 'daily' checks that no-one every bothers with:
Check all the lights, the horn and the kill switch are working
Check the tyre pressures, tread depth, valve caps and look for damage
Check the chain tension ( HYPERLINK "http://groups.msn.com/CB500CLUB/tips.msnw" \t "_top" see FAQ) and give it a lube
Check front and back brake pads (use a mirror or lie on the floor), there should be at least 2mm of pad left. HYPERLINK "http://groups.msn.com/CB500CLUB/tips.msnw" \t "_top" See FAQ for instructions on changing pads.
Check front and back brake fluid levels
Check coolant level in the expansion tank (near your right knee when riding)
Check the idle speed with the engine fully warm. HYPERLINK "http://groups.msn.com/CB500CLUB/tips.msnw" \t "_top" See FAQ for how to adjust.
Oil & filter change
With the engine still warm, put bike on the side stand and remove the oil filler cap. Cover the floor with newspaper and position an at least 4-litre shallow bucket or tray below the sump plug.

Wearing gloves, loosen and remove the sump plug. Hot oil will gush out so be careful. If you push the bolt upwards while unscrewing it, oil is less likely to go down your arm. Leave the oil to drain completely.
Reposition your oil drain tray below the oil filter and unscrew it. Usually it's possible to unscrew the oil filter by hand (try it with rubber gloves), but if not, and assuming you haven't got a special tool, you can either ram a screwdriver through it or crush it in a G-clamp to turn.
Clean the area around the filter thread. Moisten the new filter seal with a little oil, and screw on tightly BY HAND (officially 10 Nm / 7 lb-ft).
Clean the sump plug, replace it and tighten. If you have a torque wrench, torque up to 35 Nm / 25 lb-ft. If not take it easy, you don't want to strip the threads.
Put the bike on the centre stand. Refill with good quality semi-synthetic motorcycle oil, HYPERLINK "http://groups.msn.com/CB500CLUB/tips.msnw" \t "_top" checking the level as you go.
Replace the filler cap, run the engine for a minute or two, leave to stand for five minutes, then check the level and top up as necessary. Check for leaks around the sump plug and oil filter.
Spark plugs check / change
It's wise to check the condition and gap of the spark plugs at every service. Honda recommend replacing them every 16,000 miles but personally I would do them at every major service (ie. 8000 miles)
Access to the plugs is tricky as they are very deeply recessed in the cylinder head. While it is just about possible to remove them without taking the bike apart, I recommend removing the petrol tank first especially if you haven't done them before.
To remove the tank, first switch off the fuel tap. Lift and preferably remove the seat, and remove the bolt securing the back of the tank. On faired models, remove the allen bolts securing the front of the tank to the fairing. Lift the tank slightly, detatch the two ridiculously short hoses that are connected to it, then lift it clear. Place it down gently to protect the tap and keep it upright.
Now you should be able to see the two HT leads (thick black wires) leading down into two round pits in the top of the engine, below which lurk the spark plugs. Label the HT leads with "left" and "right" and pull them off (pull the cap not the lead).
Before attacking the plugs, check there is no crud in there that could fall into the engine. Use a thin tube to blow out any dust or debris, then use your 16mm spark plug socket on your longest extension bar to remove one plug at a time.
Using the feeler gauge, check the spark plug gap -- it should be 0.8 - 0.9mm; adjust if necessary. Look at the general condition of the plug, it should be intact with a light brown, tan or grey coating.
If there is a lot of carbon build-up, your bike is running too rich. If it is oily then you have piston ring problems. If it is chipped, eroded or blistered then it has probably overheated due to being the wrong type, loose, or because your engine is running lean. If in doubt take the plug to your friendly garage and ask their opinion.
If reusing the plug, give it a clean with a little petrol and a toothbrush (don't use anything abrasive).
Take great care not to cross-thread the plugs when replacing them. Get them into position, then turn them slowly by hand anti-clockwise until you feel a slight click, then screw them in gently. In fact this is the best way to fit all nuts and bolts.
If you have a torque wrench, set it to just 12 Nm / 9 lbs-ft. Otherwise give the plug 1/2 turn more from hand tight (new plug) or 1/8-1/4 turn (reused plug).
Reconnect the HT leads, and replace the petrol tank, taking care to connect the two rubber pipes securely and not trap them under the tank.
Levers, cables & pivots
Clutch Check that the clutch lever is operating smoothly and that the cable is not frayed or damaged particularly near the nipple at the lever end. If it is, replace the cable, they are only £8 from HYPERLINK "http://patternparts.net/" \t "_top" patternparts.net, and you will be stranded if it snaps on you.
Loosen the cable by screwing the adjuster right in, then unclip the nipple from the lever and pull the cable through the slots on the adjuster to remove it.
Make a small hole in a plastic bag, pass it over the end of the cable and secure with tape. Suspend the bag to a suitable object eg. the screen, so that the cable hangs down, then pour some engine oil into the bag. The oil will gradually seep down the cable and eventually appear at the other end. For best results leave several hours.
Reattach the cable, and check that there is about 10-20mm free play in the clutch lever before the cable comes taught, setting the adjuster to suit. If you run out of adjustment, there is another adjuster at the bottom end of the cable, near your right foot.
Work a little grease into the lever pivot.
Throttle Check that the throttle turns smoothly, and that it returns to the closed position when released. If not, then you need to lube the throttle cables in the same way as the clutch.
There should be about 5mm freeplay in the throttle before the cables come tight. There is a small adjuster and locknut on one of the cables just where it comes out of the twistgrip body.
Choke Unless the cable is particularly stiff, I would leave the choke cable alone as it is a bugger to reassemble. If necessary, it can be released by dismantling the switch gear unit and lubricated in the same way as the other cables.
Back brake The brake pedal should have about 20-30mm freeplay before the brake comes on. Under the brake pedal fixture there is a bolt thread with a slotted end at the bottom. Undo the locking nut at the top of the thread and turn the thread with a screwdriver to adjust the pedal hight, tighten locking nut and check freeplay.
Also check your rear brake light switch, and adjust if needed by turning the black plastic nut on the switch body, clockwise for more sensitive, anticlockwise for less.
Apply a little grease to the brake lever pivot.
The Front brake lever is not adjustable. If it comes very close to the bar, or does not spring back fully, you may have a problem with the brake hydraulics -- most likely bulging hoses or a worn out master cylinder. Get it fixed as it is potentially dangerous.
Speedo Follow the speedo cable down to the front wheel hub, and unscrew the knurled ring that holds it in place. Pull out the inner cable, give it a clean and lube with grease except for the top couple of inches. Reassemble.
Give the Side stand and Center stand a blob of grease so they operate smoothly.
Air filter
The air filter hides behind a round plastic plate on the left of the bike just below the front of the seat. Remove the small bolts securing the cover and pull it off to reveal the air filter.
Even if you are not replacing the air filter, it is worth pulling it out and tapping out any dust, grit or spiders it has caught. Also give the airbox a wipe out with a damp cloth.
The new filter fits staight in.
Note: the standard filter is made of corriagated paper. If you have one made of cotton trapped in a wire mesh, lucky you, it's a K&N high-flow filter that lasts the lifetime of the bike. K&Ns should be cleaned and lubed occasionally -- more info HYPERLINK "http://www.knfilters.com/" \t "_top" on their website.
The sub-air filter should be cleaned whenever the main air filter is changed. Remove the tank (see spark plug check / change above) and look for a black plastic box about the size of a matchbox with a rubber pipe leading to it.
Unclip the cover and remove the filter element. Wash it in warm soapy water, dry thoroughly and reinstall.
Carburettor Synchronisation
It's not essential to synchronise the carbs at every service, but it is a good idea especially if you've changed the plugs or air filter. Keeping them balanced will reduce vibes, smooth out the idle and increase power. It should be done last. You will need a double (or quadruple) vacuum gauge. HYPERLINK "http://www.carbtune.com/" \t "_top" Morgan Carbtunes are good, but if you don't want to shell out £50 you might be able to hire one from your local garage.
 
The CB is a twin so the adjustment is very easy and unless you are a slow worker you don't need a temporary fuel supply -- the fuel remaining in the carb float bowls will keep the bike running for several minutes. If does stall, you will need to reconnect the tank (just the fuel and vac hose) and run the bike for 30 secs to refill the carbs then try again.
Put bike on the center stand, and start her up
Increase the idle speed to about 2.5k by turning the yellow plastic knob that hides between the carbs
Let the bike get really well warmed up (half way up temp gauge)
Meanwhile remove the seat and side panels, and on naked models, the rad shrouds.
Stop the engine and remove the tank:
Turn off fuel tap and detach the fuel hose, catching any spills
Detatch the small fuel tap vac hose from the left inlet manifold
Remove the bolt at back of the tank, and on S models remove the two allen bolts securing the front of the tank to the fairing.
Lift rear of tank slightly and detatch the two drain hoses at the rear right.
Carefully lift the tank clear of the bike. Gently place it on a level surface.
Connect the number one hose of your vac gauges to the small stub on the left inlet manifold, where the fuel tap vac hose was.
Remove the blanking screw in the equivalent place on the right inlet manifold and use an appropriate screw-in adapter to connect the number two vac gauge hose. Make sure they both fit tightly.
Squint down between the carbs from above, and you can just see a horizontal bar between them with the throttle springs wrapped round it, and in the middle of, near where the throttle cable connect, there is a small cross-head screw facing up. This is the balancing screw. Practice getting to it with a screwdriver onto it until you can do it quickly.
Start her up. From this point you need to work fast.
Let the gauges stabilise. If they give the same reading already, lucky you, you're done.
If not, turn the balancing screw a quarter turn in a random direction, rev the bike a bit then let the gauges stabilize.
Better? If not turn the balancing screw half a turn the other way, rev, and check again...
Keep fiddling with screw, revving the bike and checking the gauges until they give the same reading, or as close as you can get.
Remove the gauges, replace the blanking screw, tank (be careful to securely connect all four hoses), panels and seat.
Set the idle speed to 1300 rpm and give yourself a pat on the back!
It might sound complicated but it only takes ten minutes once you get the knack.
Suspension and bearings
Front suspension Inspect the fork tubes, particularly in the area that slides in and out of the fork legs, looking for signs of pitting or flaking chrome or bends or kinks in the tubes. If found, you may need new fork tubes.
Check that the fork seals are not leaking (if they are there will be oil in this area). Push down hard on the handlebars and release a few times, checking that the suspension moves up and down smoothly. Changing fork seals is possible to DIY, but probably best left to a garage, where it should take about 2-3 hours.
Rear suspension Check the central shaft of the shocks for damage and leaks. Push down hard on the seat and release a few times, checking that the suspension moves up and down smoothly. The shocks are not servicable, so if they are knackered new ones (Hagon, £90) are the only answer.
Head bearings Raise the front wheel off the floor. The easiest way is to put the bike on the center stand and have someone push down / sit on the pillion seat. Alternatively, run a strap from the sissy bar to a heavy object / anchor on the floor and tighten to raise the front. Do not attempt to balance heavy objects on the seat.
Turn the bars slowly from lock to lock, feeling for any notchiness or stiffness. When released, the bars should flop gently to one side in about one second. If problems are found, you may need new head bearings, which is probably a garage job.
Start the engine and check that the revs do not change as you move the bars. If they do, your throttle cables are probably routed incorrectly.
Grab the bottom of the forks, and feel for any free play forwards and backwards -- again indicating a problem with the head bearings.
Front wheel bearings With the front still off the ground, check that the front wheel spins freely and easily. A little brake drag is normal. Brake drag that is worse at certain points indicates a warped disk. General stiffness / grittiness / grinding noises indicate time for new wheel bearings. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to rock it from side to side -- any free play here means new bearings.
Rear wheel bearings are checked in the same way as the front, with the bike on the center stand and the rear wheel off the deck. Don't mistake chain noise for bearing problems.
Swingarm bearings Grab the back of the swing arm and try to move it left and right. If there is any play, you may need new swingarm bearings.
Chain slider Inspect the chain slider (black rubber flange mounted on the front of the left swing arm). There are two small arrows indicating the wear limit, and obviously you need to replace the slider if it's worn out.
Nuts and Bolts
Go around the bike with your torque wrench and check that nothing has worked loose. In particular check the following mission-critical fastners:
Spark plugs (12 Nm, 9 lbs-ft)
Sump plug (35 Nm, 25 lbs-ft)
Engine mounting bolts (45 Nm, 33 lbs-ft)
Exhaust downpipe nuts (13 Nm, 10 lbs-ft)
Exhaust mountings and clamp (27 Nm, 20 lbs-ft)
Handlebar clamp bolts (27 Nm, 20 lbs-ft)
Headlight mounting bolts
Gearchange pedal bolt (23 Nm, 17 lbs-ft)
Footrest (45 Nm , 33 lbs-ft)
Side stand nut (40 Nm, 29 lbs-ft)
Front axle / clamp bolt (60 / 27 Nm, 44 / 17 lbs-ft)
Top / bottom yolk clamps (23 / 40 Nm, 33 lbs-ft)
Shock top / bottom bolts (27 / 38 Nm, 17 / 28 lbs-ft)
Swingarm pivot (90 Nm, 66 lbs-ft)
Rear axle (90 Nm, 66 lbs-ft)
Brake caliper mounting bolts (32 Nm, 24 lbs-ft)
Brake hose banjo bolts / bleed nipples (35 / 5.5 Nm, 26 / 4 lbs-ft)
Crankcase breather
On the right side of the bike, near the center stand, you will find a bunch of rubber pipes. One of these has a bung in the end. Remove the bung, catch any fluid or crud, and replace it.
Not covered here
There are a few more advanced service tasks that I have not covered here, because they are significantly more difficult. Usually they are only required every two or four services, or just very occasionally. Those marked with * require special tools, and £ indicates that they are probably best left to a garage. They are:
Steering head bearings adjustment *£
Valve clearances check & adjust *£
Brake fluid change
Cooling system flush out
Brake caliper and master seals £
Replace brake & fuel hoses
Feel free to request more info on any of these tasks.

    Current date/time is Thu 15 Nov 2018, 11:18 am