Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

Levers Cables and Pivots


Posts : 439
Location : Sheffield, UK

Levers Cables and Pivots Empty Levers Cables and Pivots

Post by spitonyourgrave22 on Sat 30 Oct 2010, 4:50 am

Check that the clutch lever is operating smoothly and that the cable is not frayed or damaged particularly near the nipple at the lever end. If it is, replace the cable, they are only £8 from here, and you will be stranded if it snaps on you.

Loosen the cable by screwing the adjuster right in, then unclip the nipple from the lever and pull the cable through the slots on the adjuster to remove it.

Make a small hole in a plastic bag, pass it over the end of the cable and secure with tape. Suspend the bag to a suitable object eg. the screen, so that the cable hangs down, then pour some engine oil into the bag. The oil will gradually seep down the cable and eventually appear at the other end. For best results leave several hours.

Levers Cables and Pivots Clutch10

Reattach the cable, and check that there is about 10-20mm free play in the clutch lever before the cable comes taught, setting the adjuster to suit. If you run out of adjustment, there is another adjuster at the bottom end of the cable, near your right foot.

Work a little grease into the lever pivot.

Check that the throttle turns smoothly, and that it returns to the closed position when released. If not, then you need to lube the throttle cables in the same way as the clutch.

There should be about 5mm freeplay in the throttle before the cables come tight. There is a small adjuster and locknut on one of the cables just where it comes out of the twistgrip body.

Unless the cable is particularly stiff, I would leave the choke cable alone as it is a bugger to reassemble. If necessary, it can be released by dismantling the switch gear unit and lubricated in the same way as the other cables.

Back Brake
The brake pedal should have about 20-30mm freeplay before the brake comes on. Under the brake pedal fixture there is a bolt thread with a slotted end at the bottom. Undo the locking nut at the top of the thread and turn the thread with a screwdriver to adjust the pedal hight, tighten locking nut and check freeplay.

Also check your rear brake light switch, and adjust if needed by turning the black plastic nut on the switch body, clockwise for more sensitive, anticlockwise for less.

Apply a little grease to the brake lever pivot.

Front Brake
The Front brake lever is not adjustable. If it comes very close to the bar, or does not spring back fully, you may have a problem with the brake hydraulics -- most likely bulging hoses or a worn out master cylinder. Get it fixed as it is potentially dangerous.

Follow the speedo cable down to the front wheel hub, and unscrew the knurled ring that holds it in place. Pull out the inner cable, give it a clean and lube with grease except for the top couple of inches. Reassemble.

Give the Side stand and Center stand a blob of grease so they operate smoothly.

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