Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

First CB project/cleanup thread.

WeeTony
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Post by WeeTony on Wed 08 May 2013, 4:44 am

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This is my new Chariot. I just passed my test (fortnight now) and picked this up last week for a sweet £500.

Got it home and for 20 years and 58000 miles old, she rode sweet as a nut, clunky at low revs especially in 1st, but nice and sweet sounding about 8000 and I was smiling all the way home.

I'm impulsive, and it was near, I had £800 in my pocket (others on ebay going for much the same) and the guy selling was a really nice older chap - that was the decider for me.

My plans were to remove the box and the screen, give her a good clean, and enjoy her while saving for an exhaust and other wee bits and bobs.

Like everything in my life, nothing goes to plan.

So after a day of riding, I discovered that there is a problem with the battery. I had spent the day taking off the box and screen and engine bars and sorting a high idle (it was idling at about 2k when warm) and worried that I had flattened the battery doing only a couple of short rides and leaving her running at times. I also gave her a quick wash so figured I must have done SOmething to have broke it!

A bit of fault finding later and I think it's the battery. Before buying a new one, I get it charged and it charges to full and is good to go. Back in the bike and she runs fine, till I go my first night ride and she keeps stalling at low revs! Not starting on the button!

Back to the fault finding and Im a bit miffed, but still happy to be a bike owner, even if I have problems so soon.

I mean, I've learned how to jump start bikes!

Im pretty sure then that it's the stator...whatever that is? So decide that to avoid longer offroad than necessary, I order a new stator, a regulator/rectifier and a battery. Replacing every component in the charging system has got to sort it?!

Anyway, too much typing? Here's some pics.

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no messing, the crankcase is off, the stator out, the RR ready for replacement.

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Stator visually OK? It's probably fine is there a way to test off the bike? I can always sell it if it's ok, or keep as a spare?

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one of the crankcase bolts had been replaced by a screw!! I could have cried as I almost rounded the head trying to remove it, just managed it with my secret thread loosening fluid, and ordered a replacement.

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gasket was awkward as half stuck on, took to it with a blade. What's best for cleaning out crankcase before putting it back together? To get at the specks of gasket.

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Mirrors and grips off, unfortunately I had to cut them off as they were stuck fast! I would have sold them as they were oxford heated grips. I'm too new at this to start getting used to heated grips and the like, I'll leave that for my old age! The mirrors were original but more rusty brown than chrome, and I'm not a fan of the mickey mouse ears.

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The first of my ebay buys arrives Smile I don't know why but reg plates have always been an issue for me, and the first thing I replace on old cars/now bikes Smile

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fitted Smile

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Removed the reflective sticker and the reflective OEM badge. I know it's a legal requirement but I have a replacement on the way Smile (ebay buy #2 of 17 Smile )

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start to remove the terrible paint on the crankcase, quite sure it's been applied with a brush :S

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ready for paint.

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Major issue when removing the old gasket from the crankcase. I knocked the top keg out of line (connecting starter to rotor) A good hour wasted as I tried to get it back in line, almost removing the starter to help (stopped when I realised I'd need to replace the O ring when I did that, and not wanting to be off the road forever!)

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Can anyone tell me where this wire sized pipe is meant to go? I've knocked it loose when I first washed the bike...

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This is where it starts, I think it's just a breather but can't see it even in Haynes? do I just tuck it somewhere?

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Crankcase ready for lacquer.

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Clutch case is as bad as the crankcase was...that's for another day, will probably replace the exhaust first.

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Left the garage for the day!

Off a cycle now, probably making bike noises as I go.

Will update as more parts arrive


Thanks for viewing and for any replies.



Regards,

WeeTony


Last edited by WeeTony on Fri 10 May 2013, 5:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by eternally_troubled on Wed 08 May 2013, 11:10 pm

That pipe you found looks like it connects to the cylinder inlet - I suspect it is a host that supplies vacuum to a scotoiler type automatic chain oiler (which, if you can't find one, might have been removed).

If you can't find the scotoiler or don't want one you can remove the pipe and blank it off with a screw of the right size.

I fear given the more normal weather (ie. cold, wet) you might be buying some more heated grips!

Anyway, good luck!
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Post by teamster1975 on Thu 09 May 2013, 1:03 am

That's quite an epic thread Tony, lots to get stuck into!
Ride safe & enjoy!!
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Post by WeeTony on Fri 10 May 2013, 2:52 am

santa came early:

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after a trip to machine mart's "VAT FREE" sale invitation, and a host of parts arrived from ebay, I was dying to get back in the garage...

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first I replaced the original reflector. There is no discrepancy as to the size it's to be for MOT so though this was a cool alternative. It doesn't clash so much with the rear light, and my bike green, also I'm half Italian, so it's all good!

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next up I replaced the mirrors. No rust in sight!

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Then the grips. They're pretty cheapy, but I can now easily reach the indicators and the passing light button, as the oxford heated wires were in the way.

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A nice new black tax disc holder...honestly, have people know Idea how to colour coordinate?

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and a "new" to me anyway, grabrail. It's a bit chipped and scarred but it looks cool, and finishes the back off nicely. It's only trial fitted just now (new bolts and washers Smile ) as I have some rubber grommets en route.

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I've fitted my new speedo cable, using cable ties to shape it past the front fender, as the guide seems to be AWOL. Not able to check it's working yet, but I just slotted it in the bottom and screwed it tight, then popped it in the back of the gauge and tightened the nut?

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stuck that pipe in the scottoiler as advised Smile seems to fit nicely anyway.

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Finished off my day in the garage by lacquering the crankcase. It should now be ready to be put back on, as soon as my stator arrives!!!

Hopefully have this bad boy back on the road for the return of the sun!


Literally cannot wait to ride a motorbike again!
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Post by eternally_troubled on Fri 10 May 2013, 10:54 pm

Glad to hear you found a scotoiler to put the pipe back into... don't think the bike runs too well with a hole in the inlet manifold!
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Post by WeeTony on Sat 11 May 2013, 12:45 am

can't say i noticed any difference in the ride...though I've been blaming all problems on this charging issue so it's possible that the pipe being disconnected was causing the bike to die at low revs?

Can someone point out what I should use to fill the hole when I remove the scottoiler? I plan to remove it fairly soon, and get in the habit of oiling my chain regularly along with other regular maintenance...remember this is my first "learn how to do everything on it" bike.

I've received everything I've ordered except the stator so I will hopefully hopefully hopefully get that today or tomorrow and get back out on my bike!!
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Post by teamster1975 on Sat 11 May 2013, 2:20 am

@WeeTony wrote:Can someone point out what I should use to fill the hole when I remove the scottoiler?

It depends how big the hole is. You could use some liquid metal to fill it or tap it out & put a bolt in (being VERY careful with the swarf!)
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Post by stormbringer on Sat 11 May 2013, 2:32 am

@WeeTony wrote:Can someone point out what I should use to fill the hole when I remove the scottoiler?

Check your Haynes and observe that the hole is supposed to be used for balancing carbs. Vacuum gauge is connected to inlet here. Thus, plugging it with chemical metal would be a bad idea.
How about using a suitable bolt? I know for a fact that there's a thread in the aluminium, because mine's got a philips head bolt right there Smile
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Post by teamster1975 on Sat 11 May 2013, 3:18 am

@stormbringer wrote:Check your Haynes and observe that the hole is supposed to be used for balancing carbs. Vacuum gauge is connected to inlet here. Thus, plugging it with chemical metal would be a bad idea.
How about using a suitable bolt? I know for a fact that there's a thread in the aluminium, because mine's got a philips head bolt right there Smile

You're quite right, I was assuming the hole was not factory but that would chuck a load of swarf into the inlet! My excuse; it's Friday Very Happy
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Post by WeeTony on Sun 12 May 2013, 10:13 pm

On Friday my 125pc rubber grommets arrived...

Despite this appealing massively to the OCD sufferer in me, I was sad that the only thing I really wanted to arrive was still not here.

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I blanked the holes from where I removed the rear mudguard.

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I put a grommet in the grab rail bolt holes.

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I even fitted one where I've now cable tied my speedo cable, to avoid damaging the paint there.

But it could only make me smile for a short while, as I left the garage cursing myhermes delivery company for not being quicker with my stator....


Phone call on Saturday..."a parcel's arrived for you"..

My now agitated mother who feels she works at my personal ebay collection depot.

Needless to say I was there in minutes...80 to be exact as I had to wait an hour for the bus! But before long, and without any time to take pictures during the process, we had this...

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Oh my god! I was bricking it....New stator, check, new regulator/rectifier, check, new battery, check, fuel tap on, check, key on, check and start.....[nope]

my heart sank...I could have cried...I thought about phoning the AA or something, I had had enough...'til I glimpsed the engine cut out switch was set to off....

*flick...start....WE're in business!!

Literally delighted. I've spent about £150 on all the parts (stator, RR, battery, oil, various bolts) and about 5 hours over the course of the week, but that feeling of "I did this" is well worth it.

Voltmeter on the battery showed 13.8 when idling...lights on and revved to 5k showed 14.5. I was smiling like a weirdo.

I gave her a quick wash, to make use of my new motorbike cleaner spray Smile and get all the grime off the newly painted crankcase and sprocket cover, put my tools away and turned off my music in the garage and as I closed the garage door this happened...

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I'm honestly not making this up for the sake of storytelling...It had been pissing down all day/week...and the clouds were black, grey and everywhere...until literally, as I prepared to go for my first ride in over a week, the rain stopped and the sun came out.

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I went and filled the tank, then went a good run to make sure all was well. It was idling pretty low so a wee adjustment and it's sitting just under 1500 now, is that too high?

I went to my local photo spot, and I took my final pic for the day, chuffed as anything.

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I name her...Bob Teg!

Thanks for the help...I'll get that bolt ordered for when I remove the scottoiler.

Will be back on soon as I change my exhaust and get that clutch cover off for a respray.

Worth noting here is my choice of mirrors. ALthough they look better (IMO) They are pretty cheapy and I find myself adjusting them often. I hope that in time they tighten up.
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Post by teamster1975 on Sun 12 May 2013, 10:51 pm

Well done that man, it's a great omen that the sun came out as you finished! Very Happy
For what it's worth mine idles around 1k.
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Post by eternally_troubled on Mon 13 May 2013, 9:16 am

Great news, glad to hear it all worked. It's good to get that 'emergency stop switch' issue out of the way, it gets everyone in the end!
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Post by WeeTony on Sat 18 May 2013, 7:48 am

Went my first proper bike trip yesterday..

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Took a ferry to Dunoon.

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The weather was great and I'd been to Dunoon a few times on my mountain bike so I knew that the roads were a bikers dream...

Twisted and turned all the way to portavadie...

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Can't describe how perfect this was for a first ride, but let me show you as best as I can...

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Kept meaning to stop and take photos of the curvy roads, but was too busy grinning.

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On the way home decided that today I was going to sort the front brake disk, as it had started to make a noise, after the bike had been enjoyed for a few hundred miles (and not just used to commute 5 miles per day). The noise was like a scratching that sped up with the wheel and I could see the front disc looked in a bit of a state.

Today I took the front wheel off and replaced the disc...

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Happy once again to be working on my CB, but a bit miffed that it was such a nice day, and I wasn't out riding...

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old disc

There are no pictures after that, as the rest of the time in the garage was spent swearing...

The pads were worn to 0. and the disc is wrecked.

I put the new disk on and it looks glorious, but as i put the front wheel back on, I threaded the axle bolt tightening to the torque requirement (60Nm). I then ordered a new front spindle and cut off the bolt to free it. Turned my hand to the caliper, and cannot for the life of me get the pin plug out?!

Raging, called it a day. Hopefully get the caliper sorted in time for the new spindle and bolt to arrive, and get it back on and tight without wrecking it...

Any ideas how to get the caliper guide pin out?

It's a 94 with nissin front caliper.
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Post by Basil Moss on Sun 19 May 2013, 9:09 pm

Ah! Caliper pins! I had this very same nightmare a while back. I ended up drilling out the "plug" and pulling it out in pieces with an awl. Then the pin itself was siezed, and the allen key fitting rounded off. My brother recommended a dodge which saved my bacon - you get a splined tool which is just a tad too big to fit in the allen key fitting, and beat it in (slowly) with a hammer. When it's started off, if you can protect it by fitting a socket over it (the tool itself is super hard metal and at risk of shattering), then keep tapping it in with a hammer until it's smashed itself a path into the remains of the allen key fitting, you can use a wrench to pull the pin out.

When you fit the new pin, use an abundance of copper slip.
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Post by WeeTony on Mon 20 May 2013, 1:51 am

cheers basil,

any ideas on how to tighten the axle nut when it arrives, without threading it?
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Post by teamster1975 on Mon 20 May 2013, 6:52 am

@WeeTony wrote:cheers basil,

any ideas on how to tighten the axle nut when it arrives, without threading it?

It shouldn't be possible to strip the thread if you stick to the correct torque; it sounds as though your existing one has been over tightened in the past or cross threaded.
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Post by eternally_troubled on Tue 21 May 2013, 2:33 am

I bet that at previous 'abuser' has buggered it up - it was probably just hanging on in there waiting for you to try and tighten it up.

The axle bolt is a pretty strong bit of metal with a large thread cut into it - you shouldn't be able to bugger it up if you stick to the recommended torque setting and make sure you don't cross thread it.


Those pictures are great - looks like you had a good day. There looks to be plenty of good roads near where you live!

Anyway, good luck with fixing it up.
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Post by WeeTony on Thu 23 May 2013, 7:18 am

hello chappies.

Front spindle arrived today, gave it a good clean and fitted it, torquing the nut no bother whatsoever.

Everything's going to plan so I should be back on the road tomorrow (just have to wait for my new reservoir cap to arrive- had to break the old one as I rounded a screw head)

Having a bit of trouble fitting the caliper dust seals?

Any tips? It's going in mostly then bending at one point and the pistons won't go in for love or money.

I'm thinking I need to maybe clean out the ridges better, as it's possible old bits of crud are stopping it from going in clean. Any tips for cleaning it out proper? I've used WD40 and blue roll for ages, it's a lot cleaner.
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Post by teamster1975 on Thu 23 May 2013, 8:16 pm

@WeeTony wrote:Having a bit of trouble fitting the caliper dust seals?

Any tips? It's going in mostly then bending at one point and the pistons won't go in for love or money.

I'm thinking I need to maybe clean out the ridges better, as it's possible old bits of crud are stopping it from going in clean. Any tips for cleaning it out proper? I've used WD40 and blue roll for ages, it's a lot cleaner.

I think you're probably right, there's a bit of crap left in the groove still. They should go in fairly easily; bend over the end of a piece of wire coat hanger and scrape around the groove; turn it upside down when you're doing this so the muck doesn't fall into the bore!
It helps if you smear some red rubber grease over the dust seals when you're fitting them.
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Post by Basil Moss on Thu 23 May 2013, 11:43 pm

Agreed. I used a bit of wire to scrape mine out, then glasspaper then a rag and some autosol. Cleaned it all with brake system cleaner afterwards and the seals & pistons went in OK.
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Post by WeeTony on Fri 24 May 2013, 3:13 am

I was getting really sick of the sight of this...

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Was plaguing my mind. How do I get those bloody seals in? Was thinking about it in my sleep, eating my breakfast, in the shower, brushing my teeth...

...brainwave.

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Newest garage tool. Electric toothbrush. Got the ridges free of 15 years of dust....and plaque?

Bit of faffing about later and I had this...

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Was delighted. First time ever I've overhauled a caliper. It's 4 spanners in haynes no less Smile !

Bled the front brake, exited the garage, filled up my scottoiler and gave her a good wash. Went a test ride.

No more pics, too busy smiling.

Will hopefully get out this weekend and take some photos, then I'm just gonna enjoy her til winter, when I'm going to take the clutch cover off for a refurb and fit a new exhaust.

Bring on the sun!!

P.S. Thanks for all the help!...again!
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Post by Basil Moss on Fri 24 May 2013, 5:19 am

Awesome! Glad it all worked out, you're right, overhauling calipers is one of those jobs that brings great satisfaction. Some, like changing the drivetrain or the oil are just a messy faff, but jobs like this are great.
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Post by teamster1975 on Fri 24 May 2013, 5:58 am

Brilliant job that man! Very Happy
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Post by Tzache on Mon 22 Jul 2013, 10:07 am

Great job ! Im overhauling my bike also ... where did you buy the brake disk ?
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Post by WeeTony on Wed 25 Sep 2013, 5:40 am

hey sorry for not replying in so long.

The brake disk came with the bike as the seller knew it would need done soon.

It was a honda part though, so a honda dealer would have likely supplied it.

Try wemoto.com

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