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[solved]Rear suspension

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dodgymob131
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Solved Rear suspension

Post by dodgymob131 on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 10:38 am

Hi, I wondered if anyone knew if it is just rear suspension on the 500 or mine is on its way out.

Riding solo/with pillion bike handles and ride like a dream, My pillion weights about 11st and when we go over smallish dips in the road not going excessive speeds the rear suspensions some times bottoms out, I'm a safe rider and even safer with a pillion, has anyone else experienced this?

Robyn
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fryatuck
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by fryatuck on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 2:38 pm

I had the same thing with mine so I got a cheap pair of shocks off ebay but they are not listed any more.
but you can gets some for NEW HAGON REAR SHOCKS SHOCK SET FOR HONDA CB500 CB 500 for £130 plus £26 p&p off ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HAGON-REAR-SHOCKS-SHOCK-SET-FOR-HONDA-CB500-CB-500-/200807011934?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2ec107d65e#ht_1807wt_1186

Regards.
Martin


Last edited by fryatuck on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 2:42 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : forgot p&p cost to France)
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dodgymob131
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by dodgymob131 on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 3:08 pm

Hi Martin,

Did you find it made an obvious difference, were the old ones in a state once removed?
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fryatuck
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by fryatuck on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 3:41 pm

yes my old shocks were in a state & the new ones are great compared to the old ones
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eternally_troubled
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by eternally_troubled on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 4:37 pm

dodgymob131 wrote:..... when we go over smallish dips in the road not going excessive speeds the rear suspensions some times bottoms out, I'm a safe rider and even safer with a pillion, has anyone else experienced this?

It is definatly *possible* to get the CB500 suspension to bottom out when you have a pillion, however you normally have to be 'going for it' on a bumpy road to cause this to happen.

Have you tried adjusting the preload? The 'standard' setting is the second notch from bottom (least preload), which is quite saggy - for two-up it is worth upping it by one or two (if you haven't done this already) - in fact, it's probably worth upping it for solo riding too...


Last edited by eternally_troubled on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 4:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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fryatuck
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by fryatuck on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 4:43 pm

mine were changed because they kept bottoming out,
and had been adjusted up to the max and still bottoming out.
as you can see by the photo they were very bad & started to leak too!

regards
Martin.
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dodgymob131
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by dodgymob131 on Fri 28 Sep 2012, 6:29 pm

yes I can imagine your new shocks made a difference!!!!

I've checked and they'be been cranked up to the max preload but visually look in good nick. I'm thinking it been a while since I've rode with a pillion regularly and not used to it. Please see the photos attached to check shock also to confirm the preload is on the max not the min.




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eternally_troubled
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by eternally_troubled on Sat 29 Sep 2012, 6:27 pm

Looks like maximum preload to me.

Ideally it would be best to have a ride on another CB500, for purposes of comparison.
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fryatuck
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by fryatuck on Sun 30 Sep 2012, 12:40 pm

yes that at the max.
but unless it is bottoming out on every bump,
it should be okay , my new shock are still longer than the old one's on the minimum pre-load so I'm happy with my change. Cool
its your choice
Regards
Martin.
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Watchman
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Watchman on Mon 01 Oct 2012, 1:00 am

Mine are completely shagged!

No damping whatsoever, just the spring! Laughing

Hagons will soon be on order.
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dodgymob131
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by dodgymob131 on Mon 01 Oct 2012, 10:29 am

I don't know anyone near me with a cb500 and as I live in the French alps I dont know if anyone on here could assist. Thanks for your help.
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Deece
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Solved Fitting new rear shocks

Post by Deece on Mon 08 Oct 2012, 2:55 pm

Is it pretty straight forward to replace the rear shocks? Someone told me that you need a specialist tool to compress the springs to enable fitting?
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chromedome
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by chromedome on Mon 08 Oct 2012, 3:32 pm

Deece wrote:Is it pretty straight forward to replace the rear shocks? Someone told me that you need a specialist tool to compress the springs to enable fitting?

Not at all difficult.

Bike on centre stand, Remove side panels and there are bolts holding each shock top and bottom. Completely remove these. You will have to reach up under the rear plastic to get to the top eye of the suspension unit, pull it out slightly to give room to withdraw this.

And as it says in all good Haynes manuals, reassembly is the opposite of disassembly (just remember to put the top eye in first). You might need a screwdriver to gently lever/position the bottom eye on the swing arm mount before you can put the bolt back in.

Sorted..... and not a compression tool in sight. Very Happy

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Deece
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Deece on Mon 08 Oct 2012, 4:46 pm

That's fantastic .... thanks for your help.
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teamster1975
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by teamster1975 on Tue 09 Oct 2012, 6:43 pm

chromedome wrote:
Not at all difficult.

Bike on centre stand, Remove side panels and there are bolts holding each shock top and bottom. Completely remove these. You will have to reach up under the rear plastic to get to the top eye of the suspension unit, pull it out slightly to give room to withdraw this.

And as it says in all good Haynes manuals, reassembly is the opposite of disassembly (just remember to put the top eye in first). You might need a screwdriver to gently lever/position the bottom eye on the swing arm mount before you can put the bolt back in.

Sorted..... and not a compression tool in sight. Very Happy




Just to add to this, make sure you change one shock at a time or the swing arm will drop! Access will be better if you remove the seat cowl as it sits quite close to the springs. It's easy enough to remove; seat off, unbolt grab rail and a couple of other bolts.
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cheespiece
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by cheespiece on Thu 25 Oct 2012, 4:06 pm

I have the same problem with a similar pillion. I'm 12 stone, the pillion is between 9 and 11, wouldn't want to state the exact figure lol!

My shocks look visibly fine and they feel fine with just me, only on speedbumps, if I'm blasting it do they bottom out.
However, preload set to max, bottoms out on pretty much every bump in the road at any speed, 5+mph.
I'm due a new set apparently, boys at the Honda garage or on here maybe were saying that it's not necessarily the mileage that the shocks have endured, I mean my cb has only done 20k but it's a 1997 and 15 years is a long time, apparently their age affects their performance. Which makes sense, although one would think that the main variable would be mileage/usage.

I haven't changed mine yet. Just enduring the bottoming out whenever I do take the pillion. I have noticed that the swingarm is taking a scraping though each time it does bottom out. Can't figure what it's scraping against but I will change the springs... eventually.
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spitonyourgrave22
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by spitonyourgrave22 on Fri 26 Oct 2012, 10:24 pm

Deece wrote:Is it pretty straight forward to replace the rear shocks? Someone told me that you need a specialist tool to compress the springs to enable fitting?

You'll need some help to do it though. It's a lot of effort to compress the bike enough to put the new shocks on. well I did anyway, but I'm only 11st
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Grarea
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Grarea on Sat 08 Apr 2017, 9:07 am

I know it is an old thread, but I thought better than starting a new one?
Anyway, I was wondering what I am looking at to get the suspension setting right.
Given it is dependant how worn each bike is, I guess it is down to how easily it bottoms out.

On the third notch it was bottoming out on speed bumps with just me and quite often with pillion.
So have put up a notch. What should I expect it to bottom out on to get the best ride?

Also, the exhaust side is substantially harder to tighten than the other side.
Is that normal? Or a sign that the non exhaust one is more on its way out?

(I used a C spanner from bicycle bottom brackets. It didn't fit properly but did the job without heathen tools )  Very Happy
(I wondering if that was too easy)
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eternally_troubled
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by eternally_troubled on Sat 08 Apr 2017, 9:18 pm

Grarea wrote:I know it is an old thread, but I thought better than starting a new one?
Anyway, I was wondering what I am looking at to get the suspension setting right.
Given it is dependant how worn each bike is, I guess it is down to how easily it bottoms out.

On the third notch it was bottoming out on speed bumps with just me and quite often with pillion.
So have put up a notch. What should I expect it to bottom out on to get the best ride?

Also, the exhaust side is substantially harder to tighten than the other side.
Is that normal? Or a sign that the non exhaust one is more on its way out?

(I used a C spanner from bicycle bottom brackets. It didn't fit properly but did the job without heathen tools )  :D
(I wondering if that was too easy)

On my (probably) knackered original ones I just kept upping the tension until it felt better - if you go over the top you'll notice (will be more bouncy and you'll get a pain in your arse!). I went up to setting four (that is, two higher than the 'standard' second step) for solo riding and 5 (top setting) with a pillion.
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Grarea
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Grarea on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 8:13 am

eternally_troubled wrote:
On my (probably) knackered original ones I just kept upping the tension until it felt better - if you go over the top you'll notice (will be more bouncy and you'll get a pain in your arse!).  I went up to setting four (that is, two higher than the 'standard' second step) for solo riding and 5 (top setting) with a pillion.

That sounds the same as mine, thanks.

The other thing was whether the two adjustments are normally different to adjust?
One is much easier than the other.
I am just wondering if one is more gone than the other?
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hh_12345
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by hh_12345 on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 11:31 am

Grarea wrote:



The other thing was whether the two adjustments are normally different to adjust?
One is much easier than the other.
I am just wondering if one is more gone than the other?


Does anyone know what actually causes them to "go" - the oil? the springs themselves? scratch

Mine easily bottomed out, the back abruptly moved up/down and  setting them to the top setting helped a little.
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trevor machine
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by trevor machine on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 11:41 am

Have you noticed them leaking? Tbh, I don't really understand how they *can* go unless they start to lose oil. I guess the steel in the spring can become "fatigued", theoretically. But it's being compressed not stretched, so I don't really see how that can happen. Anyway - good question. I'd like to know the answer too.
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Beresford
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Beresford on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 11:55 am

trevor machine wrote:Have you noticed them leaking? Tbh, I don't really understand how they *can* go unless they start to lose oil. I guess the steel in the spring can become "fatigued", theoretically. But it's being compressed not stretched, so I don't really see how that can happen. Anyway - good question. I'd like to know the answer too.

I think you are right. If the shaft seals wear and fluid is lost, that will lose control over suspension movement.  Honda have usually used the best materials (I believe they spend a lot of R&D money on materials research) so I'd expect that a spring would only start to sag due to the effect of pitting caused by corrosion.
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Grarea
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Grarea on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 11:55 am

I was just typing something similar.
'good question I don't know either.'

I kind of just assumed that the springs metal fatigues and loses its strength.

Let me get this straight and have a little guess:
Am I right in thinking that you have the springs that act as suspension and a piston inside them that is filled with oil to act as a damper?
So, if they are softer, the springs may have 'fatigued', but also, I guess if a seal has worn internally it will allow oil to flow past too easily. Also, if there is a leak externally, the same would occur. Or if the oil degrades or becomes contaminated that would do the same?

It makes me wonder if they might be (relatively) easily repaired?
I see most people replace them though, so I assume not.
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Beresford
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Solved Re: [solved]Rear suspension

Post by Beresford on Sun 09 Apr 2017, 12:01 pm

Grarea wrote:It makes me wonder if they might be (relatively) easily repaired?
I see most people replace them though, so I assume not.

High quality shocks eg. Koni or Ohlins are usually designed  so they may be taken apart and serviced and repaired. Cheaper items are sealed units , designed to be replaced if worn out.

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